Exalting Yunnan !

All Rights Reserved 2010 Darren Chong

Day 1: 14 October 2008 Arrival at Kunming City

Clyde was up early around 6am. Everyone’s excited. In bed, there’s only Mui still snoring away. Luckily, managed to ‘breeze’ through the usual Clementi Jam to pick up parents at 8.15am

Inconspicuously we reached Changi Airport’s Terminal 2 without hassle. We even have time to take Skytrain for joy trips. The SilkAir flight was packed with rowdy holidaymakers. I wasn’t surprise they are mainly in their twilight years. There are many retirees on this group tour to China. For SA UIC there are 20 of us, split up into 2 groups of 8 and 12. Then there’s a Gizmo’s travel group of 30, some of whom are Dad’s friends from the Chinese temple. What a coincidence!

Eager and excited, we touched down at Kunming Airport on schedule. It was around 3pm and we surprised by the punctuality of Silkair. The Kunming Airport is quite small but efficient. Fast catching up in the technological game, they even have an electronic feedback counter at each Customs Officer’s desk! Talked about backward China!

Our Kunming guide is a lady called Yang Wen Li. She is married with 1-year-old child. She looked like early thirties. She picked us up at Kunming airport with a nice bus driver in yellow. The weather was sunny and warm and road was a little jammed.

Surprisingly we did not transfer to the hotel but instead proceed to PU ER Tea tasting. From 4-6pm we were stuck there until dinnertime at 7pm. We stole out of the teahouse for a stroll in the nearby garden. Clyde was mischievous and playful but his spirits' up! Our spirits' high as well. We are all looking forward a great holiday!

It was freezing as the sky turn dark! By the time we reached hotel was around 8.30pm and were dead-beat. So this was Kunming, we thought, freezing in the evening!

Accommodation: HUA ZHOU Hotel at Kunming City (2nd Ring Road and not city centre)

Day 2: 15 October 2008 Kunming- Stone Forest- Jiuxiang - Yiliang

Woke up bright and shiny at 7am and set off at 8am after breakfast. We need to pack our luggage into the 18-seater coach as we are staying at Yiliang for the night.

Breakfast was unappetizing but culturally interesting. There are mature students auctioning art paintings and works of Chinese calligraphy. Beautiful works of Chinese art ranges from RMB100 to thousands! Not surprisingly, these students started work at 7am daily.

Feeling refreshed, we took half-day tour each to visit the famous Stone Forest and renowned Jiuxiang caves national park. The sights are stunning and these parks are graded AAAA tour destinations in China. We had a ‘camera-lady’ following us supposing to be with the FONG GUANG travels. Little Han, she’s called. She’s a sweet and obliging girl but definitely not as good a ‘camera-girl’. She’s supposed to give us each a complimentary VCD of today’s tour. We stayed the night at Yiliang. It’s the most backward Kampong Town I’ve ever seen in China.

Attractions & Activities : Stone Forest & Jiuxiang
Accommodation: Forgot the Name at Hotel Yiliang


Day 3: 16 October 2008 Yiliang - Colourful Yunan - Dali

During the cool morning we paid a visit to the Colourful Yunan World at Yiliang. It is somewhat like our Botanical Gardens. Colourful Peacocks are the attractions but I supposed I enjoyed the cool air and nature of the park more!

Inside there’s a big JADE showroom and Tour Guide Wenli hurriedly ushered us in. Most of us are not interested in JADE products. We had a sumptuous lunch at the Ah Yat abalone restaurant. Little Han came with the VCDs and lots of photos that we are supposed to pay for at RMB 20 each! We are initially shocked and flabbergast. But aware of her ‘nice’ efforts the day before, we obliged.

Most unexpectedly, after lunch at the Ah Yat Abalone Restaurant, I ran into my colleague Cecilia and her husband, who joined the CHAN BROTHERS tour to Kunming, Dali, and Lijiang. Surprise, surprise, surprise! Her flight back to Kunming city was delayed at Shangrila. We were so happy to see each other, never expecting we could meet though we knew we are going through similar tour itineraries.

Courageously we set off to the longest leg of this trip - an almost 5-hour drive to Dali of more than 400 km. The long arduous journey took us up winding mountains roads and treacherous cliffs! Along the way we saw stretches of paddy fields. We glimpses stretches of green plains filled with giant maize. Never have we seen so many great pastures of this size. Miles of agricultural land flew past and along with them - buffaloes! It’s a real eye opener for my young son who grew up in the city and has never come this close to rural lands!

It’s a real rush as we reached Dali prefecture in the darkness. It was past 7pm and we were tired and hungry.

At long last the bus stops. The Dali guide appeared before us. We were quickly ferried to brightly lit Mingzhu Square. Being cold and hungry we had no mood to enjoy the scenery.

It was past 9pm when we saw the South Gate of the Dali ancient town as finished our night stroll to the Foreigners’ Street. As the name depicted, it’s namely for the tourists. Couldn’t see any really good bargains around.

This is the most hectic and tiring night of all and the night was cold and windy. The only comfort was that we are staying at a newly built 6 star hotel with very fine amenities with palatial surroundings.

Attractions & Activities: Dali Three Pagodas - Erhai Lake - Cangshan mountains
Accommodation: FUNG HUA XUE YUE Regent Hotel, Dali (fabulous new 6* Stars)

Day 4: 17 October 2008 Dali -> Lijiang

The Dali guide is an interesting lady. She is from minority tribe Bai Tribe. She wore the Bai Tribe custom as she munches her banana quickly, talking to her follow tour guides.

Firstly the night before she misplaced the room card for my dad but she claimed otherwise. The next day morning, she mistook my room number for Ms Lily Wong. The latter kept a few travel books taken from the hotel room and was asked to return them or pay for them.

After much hassle, we set off to Tian Long Ba Bu Movie Studio. It’s a mere 5 minutes drive away and we reached there to see a big crowd gathered to see the opening ceremony. It was a dramatic skit starring a Chinese Emperor and his guards.

We didn’t get to see much of the movie studio, as it was pretty rush. The tour guide gave us free and easy time to look around the place. The sun was bright and strong yet we feel cold as the air was cool under the Cangshan range of mountains.

Next around 11am we arrived at the Yan's Compound of Bai Minority in Xizhou and the tie-dyeing in Zhoucheng. The main highlight of this visit is the local traditional rites. We were all very touched by their spontaneity and tasted the Local Flavor of Three Cups of Tea of the Bai People.

Three Cups of Tea Rites is a traditional tea ceremony conducted by the Bai people to express their best wishes to the tea drinkers. The three cups of tea contain one bitter tea, one sweet tea and one aftertaste tea, and they are all served one after another. This unique tea-drinking convention has its inherent cultural connotation that successes and happiness comes after experiencing hardships! Travellers to Dali are often greeted by this ceremony and they loved it!

After lunch we stopped by the anciently famous THREE Pagodas of DALI. They are said to be more than 800 years old! However we were told they have been rebuilt from ruins in recent years. WE also stopped at Crystal Factory where we did a lot of shopping.

Finally we set off to another long journey at 3.30pm. It’s an almost 3-hour drive to Lijiang, a town of 200 km away from Dali prefecture.

The enchanting ER HAI Lake caught our eye. Xiao Juan told us many captivating stories about the mountains and lakes in this area. She spoke proudly of her cultural roots and introduces many other fascinating attractions of Dali. It’s a pity we only had a glance of Erhai Lake and the Three Pagodas during this brief stay in Dali.

Punctually, we reached Lijiang around 6.30pm. The new local guide Xiao Song was there to greet us. The Bai tribe’s tour guide, Ms Yang Xiao Juan had already hopped to another return bus to Dali as she had another appointment at 9.30pm

Attractions & Activities: Lijiang OLD TOWN
Accommodation: Guan FANG Resort Hotel Lijiang - cosy resort style with personal lady ‘butler’.

Day 5: 18 October 2008 Lijiang - > Jade Dragon Snow Mountains

Set off early at 8.30am to visit DONG BA culture. Lijiang is also home to the 1.3 million strong Naxi Tribe.

It is indeed very educational as we get to experience and see first hand the most talked about “Yunan Eighteen Anomalies”. In terms of cultures and greenery there’s plenty to see.

The morning was filled with visits to wondrous flowing streams, spiritually quiet hillsides, captivating statues and water mills. In all the attractions that Guide Xiao Song brought us, the weather was chilling and sky sunny. Thereafter, we were urged to have an early lunch at 11.30am, as we need to catch the famous Zhang Yimou's extravaganza at 1.30pm sharp.

Quickening our steps, we reached the magnificent Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in time. The 13 peaks of 18,360-foot Jade Dragon Snow Mountain ranges are treasures of wild plants and rare animals. It's like a silver dragon lying in the clouds. Awesome and unconquered, they dominate the Lijiang Plain. Some have described Jade Dragon Snow Mountain as a radiant cornet crowning Lijiang’s head. Scientists say she arose from an ancient geosynclines 230 million years ago in an age when dinosaurs began to increase and formed her present shape sometime during the last 600,000 years, even as late as 12,000 years ago.

Sadly, we passed by a few attractions without stopping for Spruce Apron, Baishui River and Ganhaizi Grass Land.

At exactly 1.30pm "Impressions: Lijiang" directed by Zhang Yi Mo (who also directed the Beijing Olympic open ceremony) starts. There are thousands of visitors (mainly Chinese from other province) paying close to RMB 200 daily to watch the spectacular show.

We didn’t get to take the cable car to Spruce Plateau that overlook the majestic Jade Dragon Snow Mountains. Regretfully, we didn’t visit the Baisha Village and a local Naxi family, the Baisha Murals, the Rock Joseph's Former Residence in Yuhu Village. ‘Not in the itinerary’, says Xiao Song the tour guide nonchalantly.

Around 5pm visited the Square Street of the Lijiang Old Town. The rest of day we are free explore the ancient town on our own. The Chinese sayings, small bridges, running water aptly describe the quaint old town.

Attractions & Activities: Spruce Plateau (Yunshan Plateau) - Dry Sea (Ganhaizi) - White Water River - Jade Dragon Snow Mountain -

Accommodation: Guan FANG Resort Hotel Lijiang - cosy resort style with personal NAXI lady ‘butler’.

Day 6: 19 October 2008 Lijiang -> Shangrila

Around 8.30am in the morning, we set off in anticipation to the famed Shangri-la. Halfway through the Lijiang guide Xiao Song bid us good-bye and skipped to another bus and returned to Lijiang. What a funny way to say good-bye! Since we are approaching another 'region' another tour guide is supposed to be taking over.

At 11am the bus cruised along famous JIN SHA JIANG and 1st BEND to Zhongdian (Shangri-la). It’s a very important ‘bend’ in the geographical course of the river when it turns almost 180 degrees from south to northwards.

During the long 4-hour drive to Lijiang of more than 200 km, we stopped at the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge for a 10-minute photo taking session, which is believed to be the deepest gorge in the world! The bus driver is very helpful with his narration of this region. He’s kindly acting as a temporarily tour guide since there is none at this point in time! He is the well-liked Chen Sifu whom one of our tour members tipped heavily.

From the top of the gorge you look down the steeply angled (70-90 degrees) mountain sides to the rushing Golden Sands (Jingsha) River with its 18 frothing rapids more than 200 meters (about 700 feet) below. It’s a terribly winding road of more than 200km that we took almost 4 hours to reached.

At long last we come to a place called Shangrila around noontime. The Shangrila's tour guide, Ms Li Yong Qi is well-versed in local culture and very knowledgeable with tourists' needs. She of mixed Nanxi and Tibetan race. Being tanned and bespectacled, she speaks fluently and looks personable. From observation, we can tell she’s educated and immaculately dressed.

Shangri-La, formerly known as Zhongdian or by its old Tibetan name Gyalthang, sits at 10,826 above sea level. It is the capital of Diqen Prefecture. Zhongdian forms one of three counties that make up the Diqen Tibetan Autonomous. Digen borders Tibet in the northwest, Sichuan to the north, Lijiang to the south and the Lisu Autonomous prefecture to the west. It has a population of more than 150,000 85% of whom are minority nationalities including 34% Tibetans.

In the 1933 novel ‘Lost Horizon’ by British author James Hilton, "Shangri-La" is a mystical valley with lamasery, enclosed in the western end of the famous Kunlun Mountains. The people who live at Shangri-La are depicted as almost immortal, living years beyond the normal lifespan. But in real life, it’s really just Tibetans eking out a living from the tourists and tourism.

Its major attractions are the 2 lakes at the Pudacao National Park, which is ‘breath-taking’. The park is extremely huge and rugged and is shaped like a figure of eight. The whole park might be more than 800 square kilometers and will take days to walk from one end to another!

Even with eco-tour conservation buses we needed about 1 hour to go round the park. If we were to trek on foot, it will take days or even weeks. As the paths are winding and treacherous at times, we are getting very dizzy as time goes by.

It is said that Lijiang ancient town come alive at night. The ancient town in Shangri la is "quiet" since the tourist crowd has not reached critical mass. To me, each had its charms.

It was during late windy afternoon around 4pm that the guide brought them to visit a rich Tibetan family’s house and Local market. Around 5pm they visited the central square in the Old Town as well. Feeling ill, I was trying to sleep in the coach, shivering as the air was freezing.

The ‘nice’ Chen Shifu gave me his warm thick overcoat, which is very nice of him. Both of us had altitude sickness. WE are too sick for words. I had sore throat and was down with tonsillitis. Luckily had immediate cure in the form anti-biotic from kind-hearted tour mate, Ms Lily Wong. All the tour members are very nice and helpful people.

Under high altitude effects, psychological or otherwise, we slept soundly throughout the night under heavy medication.

Day 7: 20 October 2008 Shangrila-Kunming

We were tired but nonetheless refreshed when we setoff to the Diqin Airport punctually. Tired partly because of the high altitude effect, the long journeys and bitter cold.

The 45-minute internal flight was by China Eastern. It’s more technologically advance and comfortable than I thought. I had imagined China’s internal flight to be a bumpy ride using rusty old twin-engine propeller plane.

Before we could take a nap we were back to Kunming city and whizzed us to the likes of a Jade factory. We were ushered to the Flowers and Birds Market of the Kunming city and not to miss the famous Wholesale Markets – LUO XUAN WAN which one of our team members blatantly remarked as ‘selling rubbish’.

Shopping used to be a favourite of Singaporeans until now. It was not really in our genes this time to shop, as we were exhausted from the long days before. Neither were we particularly impressed with the shops and attitudes of the sales people at the Nanping Pedestrian Street

One of the more memorable events in this uneventful day was the 6.30pm show at JI XIN DINNER AND DANCE THEATRE and RESTAURANT. It was indeed a SUPERB PERFORMANCE! SIMPLY WORLD CLASS at a nominal fee of RMB 239 per pax! A deluxe show with 5-course dinner that whets our palate!

Everyone was full of praises after the fantastic show and was snapping pictures with the elaborately dressed performers.

It was very cold when Mui and I went late night shopping at 10pm. We hurriedly bought big luggage bag at the request of my parents. They are running out of luggage space after a hectic day of shopping, it seems.

Mui causally bought some thick winter wear for her brother. I didn't buy anything. We quickened our pace along the dark and dirty-looking 'pasar malam' and bought lots of movies at RMB3 per disc before they closed for the night.

Accommodation: HUA ZHOU Hotel Kunming

Day 8: 21 October 2008 Departure

We woke up to the same hotel as the first night we were in Kunming. During breakfast the usual calligraphy cum painting auction was on. Tour member, Ms Lily Wong made a RMB100 purchase of meaningful purchase. The painting depicts a tinge of Buddhists stoicism with the words 'SHE DE , BU SHE DE'. Interesting!

At 9am, feeling energized after a good night rest, we embarked at the Jade pond Park for a stroll. It’s a nice walk in a homely garden park not unlike the Chinese Garden. Subsequently we visited the LAMA Monastery for a visit. I cannot remember if the name was Qiongzhu Temple.

At 11.30am we had an unforgettable lunch at city’s world trade centre - Mushroom Steamboat RMB 90 per pax (luckily for Clyde’s free) - before we hugged each other and took photographs for memory's sake!

We flew back on the 4pm Silkair flight and reached Singapore before 9pm. Weary but with fond memories of the mystical Shangrila, illustrious plains of Lijiang and cultural tribal stories from Dali!